Hosted by one of Bordeaux’s leading Biodynamic producers, Alan Moueix of Château Fonroque, Classified growth of Saint Emilion, Biodyvin, the biodynamic wine producers association have taken advantage of the primeurs tastings in Bordeaux this week to show wines from 40 of their producers.
The wines are from as far afield as the Rhone and Burgundy to Champagne and the Languedoc. Amongst the famous names, such as Chapoutier and Domaine Cazes, were lesser-known producers only 6 of which were from Bordeaux. Not everyone is showing his or her 2010; many producers from other regions do not offer their wine ‘en primeur’ and are happy to show wines from bottle ready to drink.
Created in 1995 the association has 73 members all under 100% biodynamic cultivation and all participating in a certification process organised by ECOCERT allowing them to use the BIODYVIN label on their bottles.
The cellars of Château Fonroque as a biodynamic show case
Last week Bordeaux Blonde tested the new direct flight from Dijon to Bordeaux on her way back from Burgundy. This weekend the same route but for different wines. The wines of the Jura are only an jours’ drive away Dijon. One flight 3 wine regions – brilliant! You could do worse than to Start your discovery of the Jura at the Chateau de Germigney in Port-Lesney on the banks of the Loue. The old ‘Relais de Chasse’ has a spectacular bar in the old cellars and a great regional wine selection offered by the glass by the 2 young sommeliers to accompany the tasting menus. The food is excellent, the chef brilliantly show cases seasonal and regional produce. If you fancy something more low key their Bistro in the village, offers a more relaxed fare – but book, especially et the weekend they have gained a reputation with both locals and the Swiss from across the border.
Trying to getting a better understanding of the complexities of Burgundy I have been studying Jasper Morris’ new book, it is excellent, however, nothing replaces ‘travaux pratique’ so stopped for lunch yesterday at the ‘Table d’Hôte’ of Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton.
25 years ago Comte Senard took the extraordinary decision to plant part of their Monopole Grand Cru Clos des Meix with Chardonnay, thus producing Corton Blanc. Another surprise is the underground cellar, which, although it dates back to the 13th century was only rediscovered by a gardener about 100 years ago. They are planning to transfer all their winemaking, which currently takes place in nearby Beaune, back to these cellars.
We were hosted by their sommelier(e) Emilie, who took the time to carefully explain the particularities of each wine she chose for us from their range of 15 wines. From Regional, through Village to 1er and Grands Crus, you can choose to sample from 4 to 8 wines to accompany their daily menu, a real eye opener to understanding the diversity of styles from the village.
If you can only make it to Burgundy for a flying visit (on your way back from skiing perhaps?) call in to the Oiseau des Vignes restaurant at the Hotel Le Cep in the centre of Beaune. They have over 70 wines from the region on offer by the glass. If you don’t know where to start you can confidently ask David, the Sommelier, for a selection to accompany your menu. Not only will he take away the stress of deciding what to choose but should you, per chance, have enjoyed your wine so much that you may not remember his choices the next morning, just ask and he will print out all the details for you to take away as a souvenir.
In fact there’s nothing new about Pierre-Jean Villa. His history has taken him from
Burgundy at such illustrious addresses as Clos de Tart, working with Sylvian Petiot through Boisset and back to his native Chavanny in the Cote Rotie. After having worked with Vins de Vienne, in which he is still a partner, and in association with Olivier Decelle for a Burgundian he has now launched his own independent operation
2010 will see the release of his first vintages and by the end of the year he should finish his new cellar which will also have 2 guest rooms.
Get in line for his Cote Rotie, Condrieu, Saint Joseph and Vins de Pays, Seyssuel. Watch this space over the next few years as his newly planted Condrieu and Saint Joseph white plots come into production.
They are set to be as vibrant and charming as he is!
Touring Burgundy with a private group organised by Arblaster & Clarke we had the pleasure of meeting Nadine Gublin who has been the wine maker at the Domaine Jacques Prieur in Mersault since 1990. Almost a first in this traditionally dominated male part of the industry.
In the stunning new underground tasting room overlooking the 2008’s and 2009’s ageing in their barrels, Nadine led a horizontal tasting of the excellent 2007’s, clearly illustrating how the complexity of the Burgundy terroir shows itself through their 26 different appellations spread over 20 ha in the Côte d’Or.
Nadine Gublin interprets the nuances of Terroir to
Charles Taylor MW at Domaine Jacques Prieur
Could it be the success of the recent Hospices de Beaune auctions that is putting a smile on the lips of David Rossignol at Domaine Rossignol-Trapet ?
Prices for the 2009 were expected to drop by 20% but in fact did the opposite – reinforcing the buzz around the quality of the new vintage in both Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Or could it be the legendary Burgundy hospitality as he shares a bottle of his 1971 1er Cru with us in their cellars beautiful underground cellars?