For somewhere unique to stay in the vineyards, the beautiful 18th century Château Féret Lambert is tucked away behind the Church in the picturesque village of Grezillac in the Entre-deux-Mers. Valérie Féret will welcome you to two beautiful en-suite rooms in the family Château. This is also a great place to eat, and not just breakfast. For small groups you can taste Valérie’s excellent cuisine using local products in and amongst her eclectic collection of bric-a-brac, art and renovated French country furniture all of which is for sale in her pop up ’boutik’ in the beautifully restored stables of the property. So that ticks the shopping, dining and accommodation boxes.

Preparing for lunch with Valérie at Chateau Féret-Lambert

But don’t stop there, should you prefer self catering call in on Nathalie Schyler in Margaux, Nathalie runs the hospitality at the beautiful family vineyard Château Kirwan, classified growth of Margaux. Chateau Kirwan that enjoys one of the most spectacular gardens in the area and an open door policy when it comes to visits. She has recently acquired the Moulin de Margaux, an old windmill just off the famous D2 ‘Route des Chateaux’ and, putting her perfect hostessing skills and artistic temperament to work, she has created a beautiful little guesthouse in one of the wings of the mill. With one bedroom and a living room it has it’s own sunny terrace overlooking the vines of Margaux and access to the swimming pool – perfect for relaxing after a hard day’s tasting.

Home from home at Le Moulin de Margaux

While you are in Margaux call in and see the brand new look of Château Marquis de Terme. This classified growth is one of the appellation’s sleeping beauties, now, thanks to the renovation it no longer slumbers. This traditional property is built around a majestic courtyard with the alley of ancient of trees leading to the ultra modern new tasting room overlooking the traditional barrel cellars. Visits in English and French will allow you to discover a hidden gem and groups are welcome to stay for lunch by appointment in the newly renovated dining room over looking the vines.

A beautiful Spring day at Chateau de Marquis de Terme

If you prefer the call of the city, the Hotel de Sèze has just been reopened after extensive renovations. For many years this was a run down little hotel albeit in a great location. This has all now changed the Hotel de Seze now boasts a 4 star rating, a delicious restaurant with a terrace on the  Allées de Tourny and is fast becoming the new place to see and be seen. The rooms are not cheap but beautifully appointed and they have a funky spa in the vaulted cellars to complete the treat.

The welcome at l’Hôtel de Sèze

I have mentioned this fabulous Mauritian resort on previous posts, so some of you will recognise the name. Normally reserved for residents the Nira Spa is now opening it’s doors to non residents for a special offer. So should you find yourself near the south of the island here’s your chance.

Yoga at the Shanti

We arrived in time for the 8.15 Hatha yoga class given by one of the highly trained resident yogis, followed by a cleansing Jalneti session to clear the sinuses. This all worked up an appetite for the fabulous spa breakfast. Served in a private tea pavilion surrounded by the waterfalls of the spa garden we were offered a choice of hot dishes accompanied by fresh fruit, grilled vegetables, Muslei, yoghurt and freshly baked breads (including gluten free) all accompanied by their famous ginger and lemon tea.

Breakfast is served

After a break for digestion lying by the pool the morning ended with the wonderful 4 handed Abhyanga Ayurvedic massage, steam and scrub. We both highly recommend this as a wonderful way to while away those wine tour free months and your liver will be in pristine condition for the start of the next season!

And to finish a swim in the spa pool.

To book the Serenity Morning call the Nira Spa +230 603 72 00 or by e mail NiraSpa@shantimaurice.com

European editor, Roger Voss

Based near Bordeaux he knows the area intimately and as well as Bordeaux he reviews the wines of Austria, France and Portugal for the Wine Enthusiast so has wealth of experience to draw on. He is also one of the few who systematically taste the primeurs blind. If you want to read more from Roger his published books include France: A Feast of Food and Wine; The Wines of the Loire; Pocket Guide to the Wines of the Loire, Alsace and the Rhône; and Fortified Wines.

Since 2011 The Bordeaux.com website has been revamped with 7 versions covering France, USA, UK, Germany, Belgium, China and Japan. The language that pops up will depend where you log in. In addition to the usual information you would expect from a wine region there is video content including interviews with wine makers and not just the iconic ones but the ‘heart of soul’ Bordeaux producers. If you are not able to get to Bordeaux and tour yourself you can also follow via videos the lucky ones who have visited. If Bordeaux wine tourism is your aim there’s an app for that too; Bordeaux Wine Trip which, should you be lost amongst the vines, will locate you and tell you what and where to visit, dine or sleep nearby.

The Bordeaux Wine Trip App 

Bordeaux has over 450,000 fans of Facebook,Weibo and followers of Twitter in France, USA, UK, Germany, Japan, and Belgium, most of the 60 Bordeaux appellations and other producer groups also have Facebook pages as do many of the 8 000 properties so there is no shortage of news about Bordeaux to be had on the net.

Need info about a particular Bordeaux wine you happen to have in front of you in a shop or restaurant?  Help is at hand via an app. The most well established is Smart Bordeaux, since its launch in December 2010, this app has been downloaded over 82,000 times in 116 different countries. 18,000 Bordeaux wines, be they châteaux or brands are listed (in 13 languages) with details about the wine, producer and serving suggestions. Scan the label or type in the name to learn more. It’s a useful teaching tool to find details of terroir, varietals and wine making but be quick as the students often get there first ! Smart Bordeaux has a partnership with Advanced Track / Trace and Prooftag, specialized in anti-counterfeit seals, allowing the integration of an identification tool that scans authentication seals that are more and more present on the bottles.

The importance of traceability is also highlighted on the Cru Bourgeois web site which offers the possibility to scan the flash code on the new labels, which are a quality guarantee, or by entering the unique number on the label on label.

Data Matrix labels on the necks of Cru Bourgeois bottles

The idea that all this top Bordeaux is being mixed with Coca-Cola is now just another urban myth. It was reassuring perhaps for a lot of traditional Bordeaux consumers to poo poo this buying power of Asia by saying ‘well they might be able to afford it but they don’t appreciate it the way we traditional drinkers do’

Well get over it! Not only do they appreciate it but also they are willing to spend the time, and yes money learning more about it.

Asia now has 5 MWs considered by many as the highest distinction in the wine world, (4 of whom happen to be women) and watch out there are many more in the pipeline

Wine schools are booming with almost 100 WSET providers throughout the region for example

The Bordeaux Wine School now  has 11 Accredited partner schools throughout Asia each offering Bordeaux programmes by 75 tutors trained about Bordeaux at the Source!

The Worldwide Accredited Bordeaux Wine Schools

On a recent quick tour of the some of the key cities I was once again amazed by the enthusiasm for education amongst wine enthusiasts and the quality of the schools be they private, business or hotel schools. Judging by the quality of state academies the governments obviously attach a huge importance to investment in education, especially vocational and continuous training for people in the service industry. An important sector, for not just tourism but also supplying this growing local market of budding connoisseurs.

Hotel Schools such as IVE and VTC in Hong Kong , the Institute For Tourism Studies in Macao  Korea and TEMASEC Polytechnic  in Singapore, amongst many others, are bringing to the market young well-trained service professionals that really know there wine. Such courses are completed with visits to major wine growing areas. Private schools such as WSA, ASWEC and other Academie du Vin are also training in the retail trade and service staff as well as a growing public of enthusiastic amateurs and business men who understand that wine knowledge can be a helpful tool to oil the wheels of business.

The new tasting studio at TEMASEC in Singapore

UNWTO (The United Nations World Tourism Organisation) figures just realised say that the Chinese overtook the Germans as the worlds biggest spending travellers in 2012 increasing their spend by 41% to $102bn – so we better be ready to know how to serve them those top wines.

Bordeaux by night

When to come? Well the wine calendar is getting busier each year with events for both the general public and the trade, there are times to avoid and times to visit. So here’s a run down of some of things you can look forward to if you’re planning to visit Bordeaux in 2013.

Anyone who still thinks that Bordeaux châteaux operate a closed door policy to visitors obviously hasn’t been paying attention lately. All the regions (appellations) organise open door weekends and the first in 2013 is the Medoc on the 23/24th march

April will be manic with the presentation of the 2012 vintage organised by the Union des Grand Crus to the trade and press from 8-12th. Unless you are a member of the trade with a professional invite I highly recommend you avoid visiting Bordeaux during this week as it’s a bit of a zoo properties being very busy with their trade guests. However Bordeaux city will be full and the weather is just starting to be spring like.

However if you come a month later the highlight will be Weekend des Grands Crus on 17/19 May. This will be the 8^th edition with over 100 Grands Crus presenting their 2010 (current release) vintage for tasting under one roof open to one and all and the are chateaux open for visits and gala tasting dinners. A much more gentle experience for the taste buds than the barrel samples on offer earlier in April.

Barrels ready for tasting

Back in April from 13-14th is the 19th Edition of the Blaye Spring Festival and the open door weekend Lalande de Pomerol is at the end of the month 27/28^th. These lesser-known appellations are well worth the visit, and are an answer to the critics that insist that good Bordeaux wines are always expensive.

In May things start picking up speed with open door weekends in Saint Emilion 4/5^th , the Côtes de Bourg 11/12^thand Cadillac on 18/19^th.

Saint Emilion

The important dates in June are Vinexpo http://www.vinexpo.com/en/ from 16-20th, the trade fair that takes over the city and the vineyards every other year. Again, unless you part of the trade, again I strongly suggest avoiding these dates as all the growers are manic looking after the movers and shakers that are making, or trying to make, the market. However it is, by far, the best shop window for the worldwide wine and spirits industry.

Vinexpo
photo Frédéric Demesure / Yann Kerveno

If you do decide to come try and get there a day early you can join the Spring Jurade de Saint Emilion on the 15^th June.

Fancy a more active Bordeaux break? Come and get fit with wine! You can intersperse your wine tasting with a little physical activity if you choose your dates carefully. The Blaye Marathon is on the 11th May this year or you can discover the beautiful hillsides of this appellations by Mountain biking a week later on the 19^th, choose from one of 3 circuits depending upon your level of expertise.

On the other bank of the Garonne the Médocaine VTT is a cycle race through some of the most famous vineyards of Margaux, Haut-Médoc, Moulis and Listrac, on Saturday 25th May 2013 almost 7000 cyclists will leave Arsac in the morning and of course it all ends in a big party. The atmosphere is reminiscent of the Marathon du Medoc  a little further north up the peninsula which will be held on the 7th September this year. If you need to get into shape before the big event you could join in The Sauternes Marathon on the 2^nd June. On the last weekend of May or first weekend of June you can combine wine and wellbeing with one of the Yoga and wine weekends.

More of a spectator than participator?  From 24^th May – 2^nd June the whole of the Bordeaux riverfront, and the river itself, will celebrate the River Festival  http://www.bordeaux-fete-le-fleuve.com/uk/programme/index.html finishing with the start of the 44^th edition of the Solitaire du Figaro race on the 1^stJune.

A spot of music with your wine?  The Saint Emilion jazz festival will see it’s second edition this year from 18-21st and then the Jazz and Wine itinerant festival will be working it’s way through the region again this summer stopping in the Cotes du Bourg on the 3rd August.

Jazz in Saint Emilion

All that should give you food for thought for the spring and summer – I’ll be back with more ideas for the autumn nearer the time.

The new rosé presentation

The property currently produces a rosé called Pink Floyd. So called because a previous owner, Jacques Loussier, installed a recording studio in the Chateau where Pink Floyd recorded part of their album The Wall, so this is a property used to the celebrity spot light.

and the old.

The Perrin wine making skills will perhaps add a little gravitas to a property whose wines could perhaps not be taken seriously giving all the Hollywood glamour surrounding the owners which given the quality of the terroir and the organic credentials of the estate has to be a good thing.

Whilst we’re on a rock and roll theme, and talking about not taking wine seriously, has anyone tasted wines from Wines that Rock, vinified by the  Mendocino Wine Company in California? The reviews look good and I’d love to know if the wines taste as good as the music they portray.

From 40 Licks to the Dark side of the Moon, bottles from Wine that Rocks.

It’s not every day you taste 100% Cabernet Franc. It’s not every day you taste 100% Cabernet Franc from three different soil types. Nor is it every day you do exactly the same with Merlot and with the wines coming from the Premier Grand Cru Classé A St Emilion, Château Cheval Blanc. It is in fact so out of the ordinary that it has actually never before been done outside of the château or by anyone other than the technical team, yet here was Pierre-Olivier Clouet, the château’s Technical Manager since 2008, presenting plot samples alongside finished wines to 75 of the great and the good (and me!) of the wine world’s MWs, student MWs, educators, journalists, importers and merchants.

This new openness is refreshing. Pierre-Olivier explained vineyard and vinification decisions which lead to Cheval Blanc being one of the greatest wines in the world, then gave us the evidence to prove it, without any PR patter, prices or bumptiousness. His down-to-earth, clear and hugely informative presentation was a welcome relief from the usual hype.

Cabernet Franc samples ready for tasting

Initially we tasted 2012 samples – raw components, or ingredients, of the new wine to be blended, crafted, created at the end of the month. What a privilege to be able to make our very own 2012 albeit with just a fraction of the 44 plot samples the winemaking team will have at their disposal. As soil, (Pierre-Olivier tried very hard, and failed only once, not to use the word terroir) makes such a huge impact on the flavours, the grape variety being an expression of its soil, each plot in the 39 hectares Cheval Blanc farms, is vinified separately. Once fermented, and pre-ageing, the wines are tasted blind. No matter where the grapes originate – whether from the lesser sandy soils or those generally offering more complexity from the gravelly plots or the concentrated more structured grapes from clay soils – whichever are deemed the best in that year will fulfil their rightful destiny and make it into the Grand Vin, otherwise they will find their way into the second wine, Le Petit Cheval or even into the third wine. In this new spirit of glasnost, not only did we taste an expressive, concentrated, fine sample of Cabernet Franc 2012 from a clay soil plot but also one from sandy soils where the wine was not of sufficient quality, showing too many green pepper notes and with unripe tannins. Its final fate will be a less glamorous one.

I would not be inclined to argue with Pierre-Olivier having tasted the 2001 sample of Cabernet Franc, blended from the various plots which went into the Grand Vin, that in his opinion it is ‘the best variety in the world’. It and Merlot are the only two grapes used in Cheval Blanc and the ratio of each is totally dependent on the vintage – there is no set formula. The only rule they work to is to work ‘like monks’, traditionally, toiling in the vineyards: limiting vine vigour in the Cabernet Franc, controlling yields by green harvesting the Merlot. In the winery, they only ever add sulphur, yeast and egg white but there was no suggestion of letting the wine make itself. Why spend a fortune on a truly beautiful new winery if you never actually go there!

The concrete vats inside the new Cheval Blanc cellar

And the ultra-modern architecture of the new cellars from the outside

Making the perfect wine is more than a lifetime’s work. Pierre-Olivier admitted to not yet having made the perfect blend so the toiling and striving goes on. Already, over the course of fifteen years, they have developed their own Cabernet Franc clone through micro-vinification experimentation. Every vintage they retain 24 bottles of each wine which makes up the blend to assess its development over the years – there are now 6 fewer bottles of 2001 – so the research, decisions and planning continue. The team at Cheval Blanc makes premium wine selling at stratospheric prices, yet is far from complacent. One feels sure that that perfect blend is within Pierre-Olivier’s grasp, and tasting the 2010, he’s certainly not far away, whether it will ever be 100% Cabernet Franc is anyone’s guess.
Thanks to Yvon Mau for organising such an enlightening (not to mention delicious!) tasting and to Pierre-Olivier for sharing his knowledge and insights with such candour.

Planning a Romantic weekend? I’ve mentioned Bordeaux as a destination enough times for you to get the message but here are a few special events lined up for the big day.  The Grand Hotel has special menus in both restaurants and a getaway offer including a welcome cocktail and use of the Nuxe spa.

Chateau Troplong Mondot,  the beautiful First growth of Saint Emilion perched high above the village is offering a special 4 course Valentines menu on the 14^th –I suggest you book early to try and spend the night in one of their beautiful rooms either in the guest suites or cottage in the vines.

An Invitation from Troplong Mondot

Further east at Le Chateau des Vigiers, the beautiful golf and country club amongst the vineyards and orchards of Bergerac, is offering two different Saint Valentine’s packages, each of which include a welcome bottle of champagne and access to the spa. Should you be a little behind with your planning you have up until June to celebrate.

A romantic room at Le chateau des Vigiers

Les Sources de Caudalie is a romantic location at the best of times but for the Saint Valentine’s they are offering packages including lunch and diner at both of their 2 restaurants but don’t forget to book into the Spa too. Just in time for the Saint Valentines their land mark suite L’Isle aux Oiseaux has been revamped by the Parisian designer Maxime Simoëns. This could be the perfect time to inaugurate it

The Isle aux Oiseaux suite

In London and you can’t travel to Bordeaux on the 14^th? Roux at Parliament Square   is offering a special Five Romantic Cities menu without leaving London. Taking you from Venetian Risotto to Viennese Sache Torte via London Fish and Chips, Parisian Chateaubriand and New York  Waldorf salad all accompanied by an equally exotic wine selection. Do you believe the best way to your loved one’s heart is via their stomach, nip over to Leith’s for the day and prepare a 3 course Valentines menu for two and take it home to serve to your loved one along with the complimentary bottle of Prosecco.

Of course it has to be bubbly for Valentines Day and preferable, pink but if the budget doesn’t run to champagne you can try a few alternatives from around the globe

From Bordeaux, of course, try Château de Sours sparkling rosé in the packaging designed using the artwork of the late John Hoyland from owner Martin Krajewski’s personal collection.

Reserve de Sours in the Hoyland packaging.

Or go further afield to Australia if you want something a little more light hearted, and lighter on alcohol coming in at only 4.5% alcohol, try Wirra Wirra’s Mrs Wigley Sparkling Moscato,

Mrs Wigley’s sparkling rosé

You could also try your luck at winning some bubbly Decanter Magazine are running a competition with Champagne Gosset to win one of a Champagne gift set and have it delivered in time for Valentine’s Day. Each set contains a 75cl bottle of Champagne Gosset Grand Rosé NV, a pair of engraved champagne flutes and a special Gosset champagne stopper, best of luck 

!

Even better if you are feeling really lucky join in Nyetimber’s Facebook competition to win a romantic dinner for two prepared by 2 star Michelin chef Tom Kerridge at the Hand and Flowers accompanied by a bottle of Nyetimber Rosé 2008 – what else ?

The Venenciador at the Lost & Found, Birmingham

Sherry is essentially a dry wine made from the Palomino grape grown on special chalky soil, known as albariza, particularly important for its moisture-retaining properties. It develops into the various styles depending on what the wine-maker and nature do with each barrel. In the production of a Fino or Manzanilla (a Fino made in Sanlúcar de Barrameda), after fermentation, flor, a film of natural yeast, must develop and is encouraged to do so by filling the 600l barrels to only 5/6th full so that there is an air-gap. Here the wine will mature for about 4 years. These are not vintage wines – the wine is not all from the same year of harvest, (again, like most Champagne) but a mix of wines from various years and barrels and blended using a system called Solera , where each barrel is topped up from wine of another. A Fino is bone-dry and fresh, yeasty and refreshing – just wonderful with olives and deep-fried salted peppers or nuts.
If a Fino is left to age for more than 4 to 5 years, the flor will die off and the wine continues to age in contact with the air, when it will become darker in colour, with nutty and caramel aromas. This is known as Amontillado and is delicious with hard cheeses and Spanish hams.

Tio Pepe Palomino Fino

To produce an Oloroso, the wine is fortified to a higher level, too high in fact for flor to develop. It is then aged for many years, sometimes several decades, so it is an oxidative wine becoming very dark brown, rich and less dry than either a Fino or an Amontillado. It develops prune, toffee and walnut characteristics and works with game, figs and rich cheeses. A canny rule of thumb with Sherry to match with food – if it swims, drink Fino, if it flys, Amontillado, if it walks, drink dry Oloroso. Sometimes Olorosos are sweetened with dried Pedro Ximenez grapes making such styles as the Matusalem mentioned below, which are perfect with salty cheeses and chocolate puds..
Sherry is a fortified wine, it’s true, but the lighter styles are only 15%abv, about the same as some blockbuster Aussie wines, so there’s no need to restrict yourself to tiny measures. And don’t serve it in those titchy little schooners so you can’t smell the wine; give it a glass which will allow the wine to come alive.
You see how versatile and varied a wine it is? How classy and good value? How it should never have gone out of fashion but how fantastic that it is back?

The Gonzalez Byass cellars

Try these:
Tio Pepe – widely available, about £10
Marks & Spencer Fino £5.99
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference 12 year old Dry Amontillado £7.99 (500ml)
Matusalem 30 year old Oloroso Dulce Waitrose £19.10 (37.5cl)

Laura Clay
Laura is an independent wine writer and presenter and runs BYWine – a club which helps its members to know more, buy better.
www.bywine.co.uk